大陸人很早就不愛吃泡麵,不是吃不起是外賣更有性價比
在2012年,中國大陸方便麵的銷量達到驚人的462億包,這相當於平均每位中國人一年要吃掉34包泡麵。當年康師傅的紅燒牛肉麵與統一的老壇酸菜麵可謂風靡全國,幾乎壟斷超市貨架,成為全民日常生活的一部分。然而自2013年起,方便麵銷量開始斷崖式下滑,到2016年時已減少至385億包,短短四年間縮水近兩成。這一巨大轉變的背後,不僅是外賣平台的迅猛崛起,更反映出一場關於中國人消費習慣、生活方式乃至整個社會經濟結構的深刻變革。
90年代到2010年,是方便麵的黃金年代。1992年,來自台灣的康師傅率先推出紅燒牛肉麵,以其濃郁湯頭與“大塊牛肉”的廣告形象迅速征服大陸市場,掀起速食革命。當時物資相對匱乏,速食選擇有限,泡麵自然成為火車旅行、學生宿舍、上班加班的標配食品。
到2008年,統一企業推出老壇酸菜牛肉麵,憑藉酸辣開胃的口味和“有人模仿我的臉,還想模仿我的麵”等魔性廣告迅速蹿紅,成為銷量爆款。2012年,統一酸菜系列年銷更突破40億包,成為康師傅的強勁對手。
泡麵當年的成功,一方面來自於其價格低廉,3至5元人民幣即可果腹,比快餐便宜得多;另一方面,熱水一沖即食的便利性也深得快節奏城市生活者青睞。此外,口味多樣也是關鍵賣點,從紅燒、酸菜、麻辣到海鮮風味,總有一款適合你的味蕾。
然而,從2013年開始,泡麵的輝煌不再。最直接的衝擊來自外賣平台的迅速擴張。美團、餓了麼等平台藉由高額補貼策略進入市場,點一份熱騰騰的黃燜雞米飯、麻辣燙甚至比泡麵還便宜,吸引大量原本依賴泡麵果腹的消費者轉向外賣。
與此同時,隨著國民收入水平提高,“吃好”逐漸取代“吃飽”成為主流訴求。泡麵因被貼上「垃圾食品」的標籤,被家長與白領群體日益排斥。營養、低脂、無添加成為新一代食品的標準,而泡麵的油炸麵餅與高鈉調味包顯然與此背道而馳。
交通工具的變革也對泡麵銷量造成了實質衝擊。泡麵曾是綠皮火車上最常見的旅伴。但隨著高鐵普及,車程縮短、站內餐飲選擇增多,帶泡麵上車逐漸成為過去式。
再加上食品安全事件的打擊。2022年央視3·15晚會曝光統一老壇酸菜生產過程中的嚴重衛生問題——腳踩、土坑腌制等畫面讓消費者震驚與憤怒,對整個方便麵行業的信任度再次受到重創。儘管如此,泡麵並未從市場上消失,而是正試圖以全新姿態求生轉型。一些品牌推出高端化產品,如湯達人、拉麵說等,標榜非油炸、真材實料、手工拉麵口感,價格甚至超過10元一包。2023年,高端泡麵的市場佔比已突破三成,說明其在中產與年輕消費群中仍具吸引力。
此外,在一些特殊場景中,泡麵依舊不可替代。無論是地震、洪災等自然災害中的應急物資,還是露營、深夜加班時的快速能量來源,泡麵仍然有其生存空間。更值得一提的是,中國泡麵正在海外市場持續走紅,特別是在非洲與東南亞。像印尼的營多麵(Indomie)本就是源於中國技術支援,其口味與製造工藝仍深受中國泡麵文化影響。在這些市場,泡麵的便捷與飽腹功能仍廣受青睞。
總結而言,泡麵的銷量下滑,不是簡單的產品淘汰,而是中國社會由「溫飽型消費」向「品質型消費」進化的縮影。它被外賣與更健康選項取代,但並未被遺忘,而是轉化為一種懷舊與品質並存的新型商品。對不少年輕人而言,泡麵或許不再是日常必需,但某些特定時刻,還是會忍不住買一包熟悉的紅燒牛肉面,用熱水沖泡出學生時代的味道,感受那份屬於舊日的溫暖與便利。泡麵時代也許不再高歌猛進,但它從未真正離開。
In 2012, the sales of instant noodles in mainland China reached a staggering 46.2 billion packs, which meant that on average, each Chinese person consumed 34 packs of instant noodles that year. At the time, Master Kong’s Braised Beef Noodles and Uni-President’s Pickled Cabbage Beef Noodles dominated supermarket shelves and became a staple of daily life for the general public. However, starting in 2013, sales began to plummet, dropping to 38.5 billion packs by 2016—a nearly 20% decline in just four years.
Behind this dramatic shift was not only the meteoric rise of food delivery platforms, but also a deeper transformation in Chinese consumer habits, lifestyles, and even the broader socioeconomic structure.
The period from the 1990s to 2010 marked the golden era of instant noodles. In 1992, Taiwanese brand Master Kong launched its signature braised beef noodles in the Chinese market. With its rich seasoning packet and the advertising promise of “big chunks of beef,” the product quickly captivated the mainland, sparking a fast-food revolution. At that time, China’s consumer options were limited, and instant noodles became synonymous with train travel, student dormitories, and late-night office work.
By 2008, Uni-President introduced its Pickled Cabbage Beef Noodles, which rapidly gained popularity thanks to its tangy flavor and a catchy commercial slogan: “Someone imitates my face, but also wants to imitate my noodles.” In 2012, sales of the pickled cabbage series surpassed 4 billion packs annually, posing a strong challenge to Master Kong’s dominance.
The success of instant noodles back then came from two primary advantages: affordability and convenience. Costing just 3 to 5 RMB per pack, they were significantly cheaper than restaurant meals. They also required minimal preparation—just hot water—making them ideal for a fast-paced urban lifestyle. Moreover, the wide range of flavors, from braised beef and pickled cabbage to spicy hotpot and seafood, catered to a broad spectrum of tastes.
However, the boom began to fade around 2013. The most direct blow came from the rapid expansion of online food delivery services. Platforms like Meituan and Ele.me entered the market with massive subsidies, sometimes offering hot meals like braised chicken rice or spicy skewers at prices lower than instant noodles. This attracted a large number of consumers who once relied on instant noodles for quick meals.
At the same time, as household incomes rose, the focus shifted from merely "eating enough" to "eating well." Instant noodles were increasingly stigmatized as “junk food” and were discouraged by both health-conscious parents and young professionals. The new standard for food became nutritious, low-fat, and additive-free—criteria that deep-fried noodle blocks and high-sodium flavor packets failed to meet.
Transportation changes also affected instant noodle sales. Once a symbol of long-distance train travel, instant noodles fell out of favor with the advent of high-speed rail. Shorter travel times and improved station dining options made bringing a cup of noodles less necessary.
To make matters worse, food safety scandals further damaged consumer trust. In 2022, China Central Television’s “3.15” investigative show exposed disturbing hygiene issues in the production of Uni-President’s pickled cabbage—workers were shown stomping on ingredients and fermenting vegetables in unsanitary pits. The scandal delivered a heavy blow to the entire instant noodle industry.
Nevertheless, instant noodles have not disappeared from the market. Instead, they are undergoing a reinvention. Several brands are introducing premium products, such as “Soup Master” and “Ramen Talk,” emphasizing features like non-fried noodles, real ingredients, and gourmet broth—often priced over 10 RMB per pack. By 2023, premium instant noodles accounted for more than 30% of the market, indicating strong appeal among young and middle-class consumers.
Instant noodles also remain irreplaceable in specific contexts. They are vital emergency supplies during natural disasters like earthquakes and floods and serve as convenient sustenance for camping trips and late-night work sessions.
What’s more, Chinese instant noodles are gaining popularity overseas, particularly in Africa and Southeast Asia. Brands like Indonesia’s Indomie, which originated with support from Chinese technology, continue to reflect Chinese noodle-making traditions. In these regions, the convenience and filling nature of instant noodles remain highly valued.
In summary, the decline in instant noodle sales does not signify the product’s obsolescence but rather reflects a broader shift in Chinese society from subsistence-level consumption to a focus on quality and health. While they’ve been challenged by food delivery and healthier alternatives, instant noodles have not vanished. Instead, they are making a comeback in the form of nostalgic, upgraded comfort food.
For many young people, instant noodles are no longer a daily necessity. Yet, in certain moments, they might still crave a familiar pack of braised beef noodles, pouring hot water over it to relive the taste of their student days—the warmth and convenience of a bygone era. The golden age of instant noodles may be over, but they have never truly left us.
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