上海和平飯店：穿越百年的遠東傳奇

在上海外灘萬國建築群的風華之中，和平飯店如同一位優雅的時光旅人，靜靜矗立於黃浦江畔，目睹著這座城市百年來的繁華與變遷。這座始建於1929年的傳奇酒店，前身為「華懋飯店」，曾是遠東地區最奢華的住所。它接待過無數政要名流，承載無數歷史瞬間，至今仍是上海最具歷史風韻的高級酒店之一。

飯店位於黃浦區南京東路20號，坐擁外灘核心地段，正對黃浦江與陸家嘴的摩天大樓天際線，地理位置堪稱無可比擬。建築風格融合芝加哥學派的哥德式線條與Art Deco的裝飾藝術，翠綠的銅質金字塔屋頂成為它最醒目的標誌。內部裝潢結合西式對稱美學與中式文化元素，展現了20世紀初上海作為東西交會之地的獨特魅力。

整座飯店擁有270間客房，包括別具風格的「九國套房」，分別以印度、英國、中國等國家為設計主題，最著名的莫過於沙遜總統套房，單晚租金超過八萬元人民幣。如今和平飯店由費爾蒙酒店集團負責營運，儘管換上國際品牌的標誌，其老上海的氣質依然深植於每一塊地毯、每一道門框與每一縷管弦之聲中。

回顧它的歷史脈絡，和平飯店曾有「遠東第一樓」的美譽。在1929年至1949年的黃金時期，這裡是東方巴黎中最熠熠生輝的一環。由猶太富商維克多·沙遜所建的「華懋飯店」，不僅是當時上海首家擁有電梯、室內泳池與電話系統的現代化建築，也曾接待過無數名流。卓別林、魯迅與蕭伯納等人都曾下榻於此，而美國將軍馬歇爾則在這裡主持過國共內戰的調停談判。據傳，連日後的「賭王」何鴻燊，也是在這裡贏得人生的第一桶金。

然而隨著政權更替，飯店迎來一段沉寂的歲月。1956年改名為「和平飯店」，轉為國營機構，成為國家接待外賓的重要場所。到1990年代，因設施老化，一度面臨關閉危機。直到2007年，費爾蒙集團接手管理，投入逾五億元人民幣進行全面修復，於2010年重新開張，重回上海地標之列。

今天的和平飯店，既是一間酒店，更是跨越世代的歷史劇場。不少電影如《阮玲玉》、《色戒》、《不可能的任務3》等都曾以此為拍攝場景，由胡歌主演的電視劇《繁花》更是將成功再次宣傳飯店。而最富盛名的，是那支平均年齡逾八十歲的老年爵士樂隊，每晚於大堂演奏《夜上海》《玫瑰玫瑰我愛你》等懷舊旋律，吸引無數旅人駐足聆聽，成為外灘夜色中一道獨特風景。

若將和平飯店比作一部電影，那麼它的餐飲則是點睛的戲中戲。位於酒店內的龍鳳廳，是最能代表「老上海味道」的地方。這裡的招牌菜如八寶鴨（需提前預訂）、松茸燉鴿蛋與蟹粉豆腐，每一道皆經典細緻。更有趣的是，服務生穿著民國風的長衫，餐具則沿用老上海時期的銀器與瓷盤，使人彷彿穿越回1930年代，沉浸於老克勒的風雅時光。

而若想俯瞰整個黃浦江的壯闊與南京東路的繁華，不妨登上飯店的華懋閣。這裡被譽為外灘最美的露台Brunch聖地，提供西式下午茶與週末早午餐，其中最受歡迎的是需三人分食的戰斧牛排。用餐之餘，露台美景配香檳，不拍照留念似乎都對不起這份精緻體驗。

此外，爵士酒吧也是不可錯過的一站。酒單中特別標註著1929年開業時的經典調酒「上海司令」，舊瓶新裝，風味依舊。每當《夜來香》響起，白髮蒼蒼的「老克勒」們坐在台下，伴著玻璃杯中搖曳的威士忌，沉浸在一種只屬於和平飯店的情調中。

當然，這樣一座老牌酒店，也並非全無爭議。不少住客讚譽它無可替代的歷史氛圍，從電梯、樓梯乃至門把手皆為文物，令人彷彿入住一座活的博物館。服務方面亦保留老派的優雅，行李員記得客人姓氏，客房迎賓卡由鋼筆手寫，充滿溫度與儀式感。飯店的拍照出片率更是100%，旋轉樓梯、彩色玻璃穹頂與長廊鏡面處處皆成網紅背景。

然而也有住客指出其硬體設施略顯陳舊，例如部分客房隔音效果不佳、浴室無乾濕分離等問題。此外，每晚三千元人民幣以上的房價，與同價位新建酒店相比，科技感略遜；餐飲方面，如龍鳳廳人均消費約六百元人民幣，不乏批評認為“吃的是歷史，不是菜色”。一位住客就直言道：「來喝杯咖啡、聽聽爵士樂絕對值得，但若真要好好睡一晚，不如選擇浦東的麗思卡爾頓。」

然而，和平飯店的價值，從來不只是住宿地點。它早已超越酒店的範疇，成為外灘的歷史象徵，亦是上海「海納百川」精神的具體化身。即使無法與新世代奢華酒店比拚硬體設備，但那些刻在柚木地板裡的記憶、迴盪在爵士樂中的舊夢，仍令無數人心甘情願為這份「老錢風」買單。

正如一位作家所言：「在和平飯店，你買的不是一晚住宿，而是上海灘的一個夜晚。」

The Fairmont Peace Hotel: A Century-Spanning Legend of the Far East

Amid the grandeur of the Bund’s architectural showcase in Shanghai, the Peace Hotel stands like an elegant time traveler by the banks of the Huangpu River, silently witnessing the city's century of splendor and transformation. Originally opened in 1929 as the Cathay Hotel, this legendary establishment was once the most luxurious residence in the Far East. It has hosted countless dignitaries and celebrities, becoming the backdrop for many historical moments, and remains one of Shanghai’s most iconic heritage hotels.

Located at 20 East Nanjing Road in Huangpu District, the Peace Hotel occupies a prime spot at the very heart of the Bund. It directly faces the Huangpu River and the towering skyline of Lujiazui, making its location truly unrivaled. Architecturally, it is a stunning fusion of Gothic lines from the Chicago School and the ornate elegance of Art Deco. Its signature green copper pyramid-shaped roof makes it instantly recognizable. Inside, the design artfully blends Western symmetry with Chinese cultural motifs, capturing the unique charm of early 20th-century Shanghai, a crossroads between East and West.

The hotel features 270 guest rooms, including the distinctive “Nine Nations Suites,” each themed after a different country such as India, the UK, and China. The most famous among them is the Sassoon Presidential Suite, with a nightly rate exceeding 80,000 RMB. Now operated by the Fairmont Hotels & Resorts group, the hotel may bear an international brand name, but the aura of old Shanghai is deeply ingrained in every carpet, doorway, and note of chamber music that fills its halls.

Historically known as the “Number One Building in the Far East,” the Peace Hotel shone during its golden era from 1929 to 1949. Built by Jewish tycoon Victor Sassoon, the original Cathay Hotel was Shanghai’s first modern building to feature elevators, an indoor swimming pool, and a telephone system. It welcomed luminaries such as Charlie Chaplin, Lu Xun, and George Bernard Shaw. U.S. General George Marshall even held mediation talks for the Chinese Civil War within its walls. Legend has it that Macau’s future “gambling king” Stanley Ho also made his first fortune here.

However, political change brought a period of dormancy. In 1956, it was renamed the Peace Hotel and became a state-owned facility, designated for hosting foreign dignitaries. By the 1990s, aging infrastructure pushed it to the brink of closure. It wasn’t until 2007 that the Fairmont group took over, investing over 500 million RMB in comprehensive renovations. Reopened in 2010, the hotel once again reclaimed its status as a Shanghai landmark.

Today, the Peace Hotel is more than just a place to stay—it is a living theater of history across generations. It has served as a filming location for many productions such as Center Stage, Lust, Caution, and Mission: Impossible III. The hit TV series Blossoms Shanghai, starring Hu Ge, recently reignited public interest in the hotel. Most iconic of all is its elderly jazz band, with members averaging over 80 years old, who perform nightly in the lobby with nostalgic tunes like “Night Shanghai” and “Rose, Rose, I Love You,” attracting travelers to linger and listen—an unforgettable highlight of the Bund’s nighttime charm.

If the Peace Hotel were a film, its culinary offerings would be the scene-stealing subplot. The Dragon Phoenix Restaurant is the culinary embodiment of "Old Shanghai," with signature dishes such as Eight-Treasure Duck (pre-order required), Matsutake Stewed Pigeon Eggs, and Crab Roe Tofu—all exquisitely crafted. Waitstaff in Republican-era attire serve dishes with vintage silverware and porcelain, transporting diners back to the refined world of 1930s Shanghai.

For those wishing to take in panoramic views of the Huangpu River and East Nanjing Road’s bustle, the hotel’s Cathay Terrace is a must-visit. Known as the Bund’s most picturesque brunch venue, it offers Western afternoon tea and weekend brunches, with the tomahawk steak—served for three—being the most popular item. Pairing fine cuisine with champagne and skyline views, this experience practically demands a photo as a souvenir of its elegance.

Another highlight not to miss is the Jazz Bar. The menu features classic cocktails, including the "Shanghai Sling," first served when the hotel opened in 1929. As the strains of “Fragrance of the Night” echo through the bar, elderly patrons—known locally as lao ke le, or old-school Shanghainese gentlemen—sip their whiskey under dim lighting, embodying the hotel’s unique, nostalgic atmosphere.

Of course, such a storied establishment isn’t without its critics. Many guests praise its irreplaceable historic charm, where even elevators, staircases, and doorknobs are considered artifacts—making a stay feel like living in a museum. The service maintains an old-school elegance: bellboys remember guests’ surnames, and handwritten welcome notes in fountain pen add a personal, ceremonial touch. With photo-worthy spots like the spiral staircase, stained glass dome, and mirrored corridors, it’s also a social media favorite with a near-100% photo success rate.

However, some guests point out outdated hardware—issues like poor soundproofing in some rooms or the lack of wet-dry separation in bathrooms. At over 3,000 RMB per night, the room rates rival newer luxury hotels, but lag behind in high-tech amenities. The Dragon Phoenix Restaurant, with an average cost of 600 RMB per person, has been criticized for “serving more history than flavor.” As one guest bluntly put it: “It’s worth coming for coffee and jazz, but for a good night’s sleep, the Ritz-Carlton in Pudong is a better bet.”

Yet the true value of the Peace Hotel lies far beyond a place to sleep. It has become a symbol of the Bund’s legacy and a living embodiment of Shanghai’s spirit of openness. Though it may not compete with modern hotels in terms of hardware, the memories etched into its teak floors and the dreams carried by jazz melodies compel many to willingly pay for that “old money” experience.

As one writer aptly put it:
“At the Peace Hotel, you’re not paying for a night’s stay—you’re buying a night on the Shanghai Bund.”