在日本居酒屋中常見的「送小菜」，日文稱為「お通し（Otōshi）」，表面上看似是店家免費招待的前菜，但實際上它更接近一種傳統的座位費或服務費。通常每位客人會被收取約300到800日圓不等，依地區與店家等級而有所差異。這筆費用主要用來補貼客人入座後、正式點餐與料理上桌之間的空檔，同時也涵蓋基本服務成本，例如招呼、上菜與座位使用。

這種制度源自日本長久以來不實行小費文化的背景，可視為一種制度化、固定金額的「席料費」。在過去，居酒屋多半是熟客制的小店，店家會先端上一道簡單小菜，一方面讓客人邊喝酒邊等菜，另一方面也象徵「已經入席並開始消費」。然而，隨著觀光客增加，這項傳統逐漸成為爭議來源，特別是對外國旅客而言，因為小菜往往在未事先說明、也無法拒絕的情況下直接送上桌，結帳時才發現被收費，容易產生「被騙」的心理落差。

至於為什麼有人會覺得居酒屋「又貴又不好吃」，原因其實不只一個。首先，在觀光區確實存在不肖店家，刻意利用語言隔閡與制度不熟悉，將小菜費抬高，甚至衍生出所謂的「冰塊費」、「桌費」等模糊名目，讓整體消費遠高於預期。其次，居酒屋本質上是以喝酒為核心的場所，料理多半偏重下酒菜，口味較鹹、做法簡單，若本來期待的是精緻日式料理，自然容易失望。再加上熱門地段租金與人事成本高昂，部分店家會將這些成本直接反映在餐點價格上，導致性價比偏低。

如果想避免踩雷，其實有一些實用的判斷方式。首先，在新宿、歌舞伎町、澀谷等熱鬧區域，應盡量避免跟隨街頭主動拉客的服務生進店，這類餐廳往往是糾紛高風險族群。進店前先花一點時間查詢Google Maps或日本常用的美食評價網站「食べログ（Tabelog）」，通常能大幅降低遇到雷店的機率。此外，留意店門口是否有清楚標示菜單與價格，尤其是是否明確寫出「お通し」的收費金額，這在日本其實是良心店家的重要指標。

另一個聰明的選擇是立飲居酒屋，也就是「立ち飲み」形式的酒場。這類店通常不設座位費或小菜費，價格相對親民，且客群多為在地上班族。若時間允許，也可以避開一線觀光區，深入住宅區或巷弄中尋找個人經營的小型居酒屋，這類店鋪往往更重視口碑與回頭客，料理品質與價格也更為實在。

總體來說，「送小菜」並不是詐騙，而是日本居酒屋文化中的一項潛規則。真正的問題不在制度本身，而在於資訊不對等與部分店家的濫用。只要事前多留意評價與價格、避開明顯的觀光陷阱，就能在理解文化背景的前提下，安心享受日本獨特又自在的飲酒氛圍。

In Japanese izakayas, the so-called “complimentary appetizer,” known as otōshi, may look like a free starter, but in reality it functions as a traditional seating or service charge. The fee usually ranges from about 300 to 800 yen per person, depending on the area and the type of establishment. This charge is meant to cover the waiting time between being seated and the arrival of ordered dishes, as well as basic service costs such as table service and staff labor.

This custom originated in Japan’s long-standing culture of not tipping. Instead of tips, izakayas adopted a fixed and transparent seating fee. Historically, many izakayas were small, regular-customer-oriented shops, and serving a small dish upon seating allowed guests to start drinking while waiting for their food, symbolizing that the dining experience had officially begun. However, with the rise of tourism, this practice has become controversial. For many foreign visitors, otōshi can feel deceptive because it is served automatically, cannot usually be declined, and is only noticed on the bill, creating a sense of being overcharged.

As for why some people feel izakayas are “expensive and not tasty,” there are several reasons. In tourist-heavy areas, some unscrupulous restaurants exploit visitors’ unfamiliarity with the system and language barriers, charging inflated otōshi fees or adding vague items such as “ice fees” or “table charges,” pushing the final bill far beyond expectations. In addition, izakayas are fundamentally drinking-focused venues. Their food is designed as bar snacks, often saltier and simpler than full meals. If customers expect refined Japanese cuisine, disappointment is likely. On top of that, high rents and labor costs in prime locations are often passed on to customers through higher prices, reducing perceived value for money.

There are practical ways to avoid bad experiences. In busy districts like Shinjuku, Kabukicho, and Shibuya, it is best not to follow aggressive street touts into restaurants, as these places are more likely to overcharge. Before entering, checking reviews on Google Maps or Japanese food review sites such as Tabelog can significantly reduce the risk of choosing a poor-quality or overpriced establishment. It is also wise to confirm that menus and prices are clearly displayed at the entrance, especially whether the otōshi fee is explicitly stated, which is often a sign of a trustworthy restaurant.

Another smart option is standing bars, known as tachinomi. These places typically do not charge otōshi or seating fees, offer more affordable prices, and are popular with locals. If possible, venturing away from major tourist areas and into side streets or residential neighborhoods to find small, independently run izakayas can also lead to better food and fairer prices, as these establishments rely more on reputation and repeat customers.

Overall, the otōshi system itself is not a scam but a long-standing unwritten rule of izakaya culture. The real issue lies in information gaps and occasional abuse by certain businesses. By understanding the cultural context, checking prices and reviews in advance, and avoiding obvious tourist traps, visitors can enjoy Japan’s unique and relaxed drinking culture with confidence.